– Scrape off excess solder using a flat bladed (chisel blade) knife and a sharpened screwdriver blade, files and abrasive sticks and fabric.
– Remove any really bad oxidation with an acidic cleaner such as shiny sinks or viakal. Then neutralise the above and any leftover flux with an alkaline powder cleaner like Ajax or vim. Don’t use washing up liquid as the lanolin in most is bad news for paint adhesion.
– If the model isn’t that bad then I tend to use ‘just like the real thing’ “model clean” which is brushed on, left to dry and then washed off.
– Once dry, spray lightly with halfords primer. Usually grey, but use red oxide on vehicles to be closer to that colour or where rusty weathering is to be applied.
– Carefully use the clarity that all-over grey brings to remove any visible issues.
– Spray with top coats. I use tamiya masking tape when necessary. Use a low powered hairdryer to dry the paint quicker and avoid problems in handling the model too soon after spraying. Careful with white metal as too much heat can melt the solder! I melted a Baldwin once that way!
– Brush paint roofs, ends etc. using acrylics.
– Spray with matt varnish
– Add transfers after the varnish.
– Always wear a decent mask and use an extraction unit (pictured) where possible.