– For long grass I use the old school carpet underlay technique (this stuff is hard to find these days, but I think green scene sell it, or go to a mill like I did in Burnley and pick up a load proper cheap). Separate the underlay and remove the plastic webbing between the two halves. Discard the heavily patterned side and use the more random weaved bit. Remove any obvious coloured or thicker strands and rip into pieces approx 1 inch across. Using high strength PVA glue these blobs to your base (I used ply formers filled in with newspaper balls and covered with modroc plaster bandage). Let it dry hard overnight, then pull off most of the underlay – the fibres that were glued will remain.
Then using hair clippers, literally mow this to your chosen height. You can also use nail scissors to help and tease the fibres out with a nailbrush or similar. I then soak the fibres randomly with a very thin mix of lner doncaster green and a pure yellow (4:1) thinning using white spirit. A couple of coats of this and more pruning and you’ll have some lovely long grass effects.
– I also add static fibres from the woodlnad scenics range using a puffer bottle and hairspray to hold in place For shorter or smaller areas I plan to use the noch grassmaster too.
– For bushes and weeds I use a variety of colours from the woodland scenics range
– Trees are difficult and I have spent a lot of time experimenting with making my own (the copper wire teased out method is probably best but very time consuming). I didn’t get on with the very brittle and often bent sea moss methods. I have thus mixed many types of commercial trees from bachmann, international models and woodland scenics – if it looks right, it probably is.
– For water I use the woodland scenics products although I have found recently some impressive other products. The WS water effects product is very interesting indeed and allows you to create some great white water, waves and waterfalls.
For rockforms I use the woodland scenics rubber rock moulds, casting using their special lightweight plaster and then colouring using spotting with the WS dyes, sealed with matt medium. I use their talus and smaller rock moulds for boulders and scree.